Barriers
I suppose I imagined the biggest barrier here would be language. And believe me there are times when I think that I will never get a point, or an idea across using a series of arm shaking and face pulling trying to convey my requirement.
But strangely language is not that bad, as most times with rudimentary English or a smile one can get by.
For me the most difficult thing to cope with up here is the complete, and I mean COMPLETE lack of any logic to processes or procedures – at least logic by my or South African standards.
For example if a dustbin has a lid that will open facing front then you can be sure it will be placed facing back.
Or like the shelf I have set aside in the kitchen for cereals and teas and coffee storage. The logic of if something is opened and on a tray at the kettle and therefore in use simply cannot register and tonight the coffee jar will be place not on the storage shelf with other dry ration goods but perhaps with the cleaning materials today and tomorrow with the vegetables.
A shirt that today is hung tomorrow is folded, socks that today get placed with underwear, tomorrow will be in the bedroom down the passage – regardless of the fact that NO one else is in the home!
Tea that is served daily with honey will suddenly come with sugar. Knives and forks stored in the draw in the kitchen will suddenly be stored at the dinning room dresser.
At the office it is worse! A meeting that can last 2 hours where, step for step the arrangements for a launch are planned and discussed and every detail of who must be included, or what must be done will suddenly and with out any warning be implemented on a completely different understanding.
But for all that it remains delightful in its strangeness.
ButareI really have neglected to jot as I notice the last entry – What have I done since last I wrote. Well let’s see, I did drive down to Butare the country’s intellectual capital, for here is the largest university in Rwanda.
Historically Butare was the largest and most important city in Rwanda, prior to 1965, before the more centrally located Kigali stole the privilege. Today Butare is the site of several academic institutions, including the country's main university. (This from an advert of the town – “It is also an attractively compact and sedate town of shady avenues emanating from a main street, lined with comfortable small hotels and breezy terrace restaurants” - Yes, well not quite!)
The most prominent tourist attraction in Butare is the National Museum, not to be confused with the Genocide museum in Kigali. The National Museum is more about the country’s history (Post Colonial) as well as the subsequent development of Rwanda as a modern African state
Nearby is Nyabisindu, formerly known as Nyanza, this was the traditional seat of Rwanda’s feudal monarchy. This town hosts the Royal Palace, a domed construction made with traditional materials. It has been restored to its 19th century state and is now also maintained as a museum (I regret to tell you this from the tourist brochure as I was on a whistle stop of the area but do plan to return)
I am on the road to attend a local dinner we will host for the officials of the “province”. Needless to say I arrive and the dinner is poorly attended due to an earlier visit by the Prime Minister, who was on route back from diplomatic talks with the Burundians – Butare is a stone throw from the border of the two countries.
A Prime Minister, we all must agree takes precedent, so we host an evening of minor officials and at 11pm I, and my driver, make our way home along the winding and hilly roads of Rwanda – we frequently veer from the wrong side of the road to clear out of the way of an oncoming cars and on two occasions come across a foot patrol of the Rwandan military, who have obviously been out in the hills.
Dark clouds or a hazy horizon that will soon clear?
The biggest fear, or threat on the horizon, is the upcoming elections of the DRC (Democratic Republic of the Congo). Earlier I outlined the steps to the genocide and then subsequent peace. Of those that where routed and chased from the country (The Hutu Rebels or former governments militia), many fled in to the neighboring DRC and Burundi.
These rebels are still camped out in the bush and are frequently involved in skirmishes with their host countries military, as well with the odd Rwandan patrol that pops over and rattles their cage. (Although this will be strongly denied).
The President is often calling these rebels back saying that this country belongs to all and that there is no need to hide or fight, they are welcome back and once here they can contest, as any other party does, the country’s elections.
In fact the very PM visit I talk of a few paragraphs earlier was a visit to prepare the way for the President to visit the Burundian’s where he called on those rebels in Burundi to lay down their arms and come home. Prompting for Burundi to be able to declare, “There are no refugees in Burundi as they are not fleeing from anything as their own country, Rwanda, is welcoming them home.” A polite way of saying. “Go Home! We don’t want you”
So back to that threat – for now Kabila is only to happy to let these rebels stay and help him to win his election – but like Mosevini before him, once the election is over Kabila will have no need for these rebels and will throw them to the wolves and they will be forced into a very dark corner, the fear is they will cross over into Rwanda on the western front (So to speak) and play the game of insurgents, perhaps destabilizing the area to the west of Kigali?
I visit South Africa, Kigali style!I have just returned form South Africa – oh sorry did I say South Africa! Tut Tut I meant of course the Intercontinental. It’s the local 5 star hotel and is staffed and run by the SA Southern Sun team on contract, the mood and culture is very much one of SA, and you could almost be in Sandton. (Although the rumour is that the contract was reviewed and the SA contingent has been unceremoniously dumped and will pack their dumb valet’s and head out within the week!). Leaving the Intercontinental group for the UK owners to decide how best to manage the remote hotel.
Interestingly the hotel is state owned or rather around 50% of it is the rest is the Intercontinental, as it is here with MTN and many other major concerns, as the governments moves to privatize the country – rather startling however this week I hear that while the “State” indeed owns these assets they are actually first stripped out and then placed in a holding consortium owned by the ruling party? A comment that I need to further check, as it is or was only a passing comment – but as we all know a rumour is only a fact waiting to happen!
In the mix with His Excellency!
On the way home from the hotel this morning my driver was flagged to the side of the road and we were passed by the Presidents motorcade – encouragingly no less a fanfare as getting passed by Mbeki’s motorcade on its run on the Ben Schoeman! Two Land Cruisers in the lead with discreet flashing lights, followed by a Mercedes that is not seen in SA it’s a 4X4 type box and obviously well fortified (Can cars be fortified?) and a following Land Cruiser. Courtesy has the locals all moving over, and the motorcade whizzes by with very little fuss.
Rain and Mosquitoes = MalariaWe are in the rainy season – spectacular storms and of course increased malaria activity! On Friday night as I arrived home the heavens opened and the house “security” lad had to open the gate in a torrential downpour. Needless to say by the time the driver had left Claude was soaked through. I felt compelled to make him a warm cup of tea and the jacket that I had purchased for him, some weeks earlier was wet and damp. I of course had the benefit of going indoors and drying off and enjoyed a hot shower and warm bed clothes – I am resigned not to let this guilt overwhelm me, as so it would be if Claude was in any other country.
However the next morning I was told, as leaving to the office, that he wanted to go to the doctor - as he was feeling ill – I resolved to also get him another jacket, one that would keep the wet out! (More a raincoat)
Once home that afternoon (Sat) he was still out, and when he did arrive it was to give news that he had malaria, the third time for him! Of course all this is communicated via hand signal and various facial contortions. It works and we get by!
He is on medication and will have to pay Frw16500 (That’s around R180) He only earns Frw40000 (R450pm)– Which is extremely good for this sort of position.
I do love this place – There is certain instability, an edge, an angst that lies below the surface and that I find very alluring. It suits me, and I find I can cope with that and try keep above it while loving to delve into it with the curiosity that I possess.
Kigali/MJM 20060319
